Upscale Belgian restaurant hits the ‘Markt’

New Year’s resolution diets are delusional. After all, there’s no better time than January to crowd around glasses of imported beer or enjoy a heaping pot of moules frites. Markt, a classy Belgian bodega of sorts on the corner of 21st Street and Sixth Avenue, serves up these winter pleasures with style. The dim lighting exudes a curious, romantic flair that unexpectedly gives way to lively chatter inside—young professionals and old couples alike occupy sturdy, Bavarian-style chairs and dark wooden tables laden with candles and jars of sea salt. An inviting bar boasts an impressive list of approximately 40 beers, including Hoegaarden, Stella Artois, and dessert beers ($5 to $15 per glass). If this doesn’t hint at the Belgian influence, the Flemish writing on the walls and quaint portraits of Belgian royalty surely will.

More often than not, Belgian cuisine is dismissed as French—after all, they are geographic neighbors. Yet, while Belgium’s southern half consists of the French-speaking Walloons, its northern half is largely Flemish. With the influence of about eight different ethnic groups, it’s safe to say that lumping Belgian and French food together would be criminal. True, the French influences are present: cream-based sauces, loads of butter, crème fraiche, and a meat foundation. But Belgium is best known for its beer, and it’s not only used for drinking. Replacing the obsessive French tradition of cooking with wine, Belgians use their signature beverage instead. And those fried potatoes? They aren’t French, but Belgian. Whereas French food is known for its refined, upscale sophistication, Belgian fare is significantly less self-conscious and enjoys heartier portions.

At Markt, there are five different styles of moules frites—mussels and fries—on the menu ($18 each). Apart from traditionally prepared moules—in a light broth derived simply from the steamed mussels and vegetables, or a beer base—there are also moules à la coriandre, which are steamed in a cream-based sauce with a delicious hint of curry. The mussels themselves are tender and garnished with a myriad of thinly sliced vegetables. Somewhere between soft and crunchy, the fries are delightfully cooked, served with the traditional Belgian side of mayonnaise.
Under Les Poissons and Les Viandes, one finds generous selections such as grilled lobster with braised mixed greens in a Hoegaarden cream sauce ($34) and Belgian beef stew made in Leffe Brown beer ($16). There is also the classic waterzooi, a chicken and vegetable stew ($19). The poulet aux cerises, however, steals the poultry spotlight ($22). Underneath moist skin lies a delicate chicken breast covered in a gravy-like kriek beer sauce, infused with the beer’s subtle sweetness. And it wouldn’t be a Belgian dish if it wasn’t served with a side of potatoes, in this case a potato soufflé topped and browned with gruyere cheese.

If the generous portions haven’t satisfied, the dessert offerings will, with a variety of indulgent sweets. The warm chocolate tart alone rivals the city’s best, with an airy crust giving way to a sea of melted, dark Belgian chocolate ($10). A refreshing pistachio ice cream made in-house contrasts with the deep chocolate flavor. For those beer fanatics, the lemon tart is served with kriek beer sorbet ($8).

Belgian cuisine may not be the most common ethnic food, but endless quality beers, ample servings of meat, and world-renowned chocolate make Belgian fare something to talk about. The Belgians know how to live life, so heading down to Markt may just be the right way to end a week filled with newfound stress and schoolwork.