At El Porton, Mexican rice that’s not worth the price

Cravings for Mexican food come in sporadic bursts, like a quick need for satisfaction of a massive hunger. And for the low price, not even the most desperate individual can complain. Eventually, however, mediocre Mexican cuisine doesn’t cut it anymore. Thus begins a search for a comfortingly delicious, dependable experience in the city, beyond the ubiquitous burrito truck.

Near the subway overpass on Broadway and La Salle lies El Porton—a Mexican restaurant that boasts an inviting bar and a down-to-earth vibe. Add a potent mango frozen margarita to the list, and the boasting stops there.

Offering everything from enchiladas to tacos, fajitas to quesadillas, the menu includes a few unexpected items, such as barbacoa, or savory oven-roasted goat. In true Mexican fashion, a bowl of chips and salsa arrives at the table in no time, but its complimentary price fails to mask its unappetizing nature—a combination of unsuccessfully fried chips attempting to hide an already stale taste, and salsa resembling watery tomato juice as opposed to the desirable chunkiness.

Steak fajitas, unfortunately, don’t provide much hope either. The best part of this concoction is the soft, warm tortilla, but the most critical ingredient—grilled steak—is a disappointing product of dry, thinly sliced meat. A pitiful heap of guacamole, sour cream, and shredded white cheddar cheese accompanies a lackluster plate of black beans and rice. Slathering the fajita with an unusual amount of sour cream is the best attempt to make it a worthwhile bite.

As a starter, the tinga de puerco tostaditas are potentially memorable, with a few minor reservations. Three crispy, flat tortillas are filled with a mound of juicy but slightly browned roasted pork mixed with black beans, sour cream, and chipotle tomato sauce for a zesty tang. Nevertheless, it certainly could do without the confounding overload of shredded lettuce and parmesan cheese.

The most noteworthy dish of the night is the chuletas de puerco, or pan-fried tender pork chops. They’re not of the hefty, truck driver-friendly kind, but rather are delicately thin. The skin is cooked just until dry, carrying a saltiness but allowing the meat within to retain a welcoming succulence.

For overwhelming portions at roughly $10 a plate, El Porton is a bargain for most students. Consider it a happy-hour spot at best, or a great late-night spot to throw back some margaritas after a rough week. As for the search for some epic Mexican food, it continues.