Papasito joins the crop of MoHi Mexi joints but is far from its cream

In place of the now defunct Angelina Pizza Bar, Papasito Mexican Grill & Agave Bar purports a very different cuisine, but its flavors end up just as American.

The space at 2728 Broadway (between 104th and 105th streets) has been transformed into a salsa club via a Southwest living room. Faux adobe walls are hung with paintings of brightly colored sombreros and flooded with red light from overhead.

A meal at Papasito begins as all Mexican dining experiences should—with a basket of complimentary salsa and tortilla chips, though these tri-colored ones arrive a bit stale and under-salted. The waiter then tries the Mama Mexico trap of casually offering guacamole, which new patrons might not realize will cost them $8. Those who do decide to splurge (or get tricked) can choose the avocado staple in original, pineapple, or mango. The latter two choices add a little something extra to an otherwise fresh but unremarkable guac.

A dish that gets more inventive with the same main ingredient is the appetizer “Aguacate y Cangrejo.” Circlets of delicately cut avocado are arranged in a tower, alternating with a crunchy layer. Tender chunks of crab meat, cilantro, pico de gallo, and purportedly Dijon (the flavor is undetectable) fill the cylinder to the bottom. The dish is again fresh but lacking in zest until—and this is where the cultural cuisine confusion starts—one discovers the swirls of balsamic around the sides of the plate. A pink Hawaiian flower serves as an out-of-place garnish. “Filet Mignon y Queso Azul,” which is made with portobello mushrooms and blue cheese, is equally puzzling on a Mexican menu.

A trio of tacos seems more conventional. While most places dissuade guests from mixing and matching their taco fillings, Papasito offers a “choice of 3” on the menu. Unfortunately, those planning to make a full meal out of them may also need to choose three orders—they are doll-sized.

The sea bass option sounds sophisticated but tastes fishy—the first dish to lack freshness. Chef Vasquez might have been better off sticking to a more familiar mahi-mahi or codfish filling. Making it a double strike-out seafood-wise, the shrimp were somehow sweet yet over-salted. And this is coming from a girl who individually salts each tortilla chip. Filet mignon turns out to be the best choice, even if it substitutes French fanciness for the usual carne asada name. The beef is as tender as if it had been stewed and oozes a comparable flavor. All three types come topped with a pinch of pico and a stripe of melted white cheese.

Unlike some other sit-down Mexican places (like Mama Mexico and Cascabel), Papasito offers burritos. Chicken, steak, and shrimp are all overshadowed, though, by the yellow rice, which tastes suspiciously like Uncle Ben’s Spanish Style.

Mediocre portion sizes may leave students less than full, but those who calculate a quick mental tab ($18 burrito + $10 appetizer) will be inclined to say no to a dessert menu. It doesn’t depart much from the requisite churros and tres leches cake anyway.

As for drinks, considering its full title, Papasito offers few options with agave listed as an ingredient. One that does also includes St. Germain, muddled strawberries, fresh lime, and cherry tomatoes—again, a perplexing addition. Cocktails are $12, or $20 for a Vaso Gigante size.

Fusion food may be a long-lasting trend in New York, but Papasito’s take feels unfocused. Just as overpriced as Mama Mexico, if more flavorfully decorated, Papasito doesn’t warrant foregoing a classic Taqueria y Fonda burrito.